Paris Fashion: Chanel dazzles with feathers, while Louis Vuitton draws a star-studded crowd

Chanel made its grand return to the Grand Palais on Tuesday, the site of many of Karl Lagerfeld's most iconic shows, marking its first appearance there in four years. While the brand is currently without a head designer, it still managed to stir excitement with a birdcage-themed show at Paris Fashion Week.

The historic French fashion house transformed the restored Belle Epoque building into a massive aviary, placing a white birdcage at the center to display a collection adorned with feathers and plumes.

Just a day prior, British designer Stella McCartney, an advocate for animal rights, criticized the fashion industry for the "billions of birds killed" for its creations after presenting her own bird-themed show. Nonetheless, Chanel, known for its founder Gabrielle Chanel’s love of birds and flight, embraced feathers in abundance. The large birdcage was also a tribute to Chanel’s 1992 bird-on-a-swing advertisement featuring French singer Vanessa Paradis. This time, Elvis Presley's granddaughter, Riley Keough, took to the swing for a performance.

As the main entrance of the Grand Palais now bears Gabrielle Chanel's name, part of a €30 million deal to host the brand's shows at the iconic venue, Chanel used the occasion to make a statement amidst uncertain times. 

No Rush for a New Designer  
Following the departure of Virginie Viard, who succeeded Lagerfeld after his passing in 2019, Chanel has been without a creative director since June. The studio took charge of designing the spring-summer collection, which revisited many of the brand's signature elements, from its famous tweeds to flapper-style dresses and flight jackets. Feathers took center stage, appearing as ruffled collars on crocheted bombers and in 1920s-inspired gowns, paying homage to the cabaret style of French writer Colette.

Chanel's president, Bruno Pavlovsky, assured that the brand is in no hurry to appoint a new designer, emphasizing the importance of taking time to make the right choice. He mentioned that an announcement might come by the end of the year. Names like Tom Ford, John Galliano, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and French fashion editor Carine Roitfeld have been floated as potential successors, though Pavlovsky remained tight-lipped about any rumors.

Despite a dip in profits at major luxury houses due to reduced spending from Chinese consumers, Pavlovsky expressed confidence in Chanel's resilience, crediting Viard's contributions over the past five years and her three-decade-long partnership with Lagerfeld. He stressed the strength of Chanel’s team and its ability to maintain stability during the transition.

Virtuoso Vuitton  
Later that day, Hollywood stars Hilary Swank and Willem Dafoe walked the runway for Miu Miu, Prada’s avant-garde sister brand. Designer Miuccia Prada, who holds a doctorate in political science, titled her show "Truthless Times," with models walking through a replica of a newspaper printing press, papers flying overhead.

However, the day’s standout show was Louis Vuitton's, held at the Louvre, where designer Nicolas Ghesquière presented a stunning array of colors and styles, with each look distinct from the next. Models walked a runway designed to resemble Louis Vuitton suitcases and travel trunks. 

Ghesquière’s shoes and sandals drew the attention of a star-studded front row, which included celebrities such as Zendaya, Cate Blanchett, Alicia Vikander, and Blackpink's Lisa. The collection began with flat, men's style sandals and culminated in whimsical puffball "cloud" slippers that could easily double as a way to polish marble floors in Hollywood mansions.